Beetroot is an adaptable vegetable, but not many people eat it raw. In fact, some varieties can give you a scratchy throat if you eat them naked and unabashed (the beetroot, not you). But one of the joys of raw beetroot is the crunchy texture and unrivalled earthiness. So, in order to preserve that bite and !avour, I like to lightly pickle thin slices in cider vinegar. The acidity seems to calm the beetroot down without quelling its character. Look out for plump, salted anchovies and if you’ve got time, it’s worth splitting and peeling the almonds – just put on some nice music and daydream as you do it; they have such a unique milkiness.
Serves 2-3
Ingredients
about 50g (1¾ oz) unblanched whole almonds
5–6 small beetroot (beets); golf-ballsize is ideal
2–3 thyme sprigs
1 garlic clove, bashed
150ml (5fl oz) apple cider vinegar
½ tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
1 small jar of salted anchovies in oil (about 50g/1¾ oz), drained
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
beetroot (beet) leaves or salad leaves (optional), to serve
For the lovage mayonnaise
2 large egg yolks
½ small garlic clove, grated or crushed to a paste
1 teaspoon Dijon or English mustard, plus extra to taste if needed
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar, plus extra to taste if needed
175ml (5½fl oz) sun!ower oil
75ml (2½fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
a handful of lovage, leaves picked and finely chopped (or use flat-leaf parsley)
Method
Place the almonds in a bowl and pour over just enough boiling water to cover. Set aside somewhere cool to plump up – preferably overnight.
Trim, then peel the beetroot (beets). Slice them as thinly as you can. It can be tricky, but if you take your time and you have a sharp knife it’s not too difficult. Place the beetroot rounds in a bowl, add the thyme, bashed garlic and vinegar and shuffle everything about so the vinegar covers the beetroot. Place in the fridge to pickle for at least 6 hours.
Drain the almonds then use the tip of a knife to split them. They will naturally part down their middles and the soft skin will all but pull away. Use the tip of the knife to tease away any stubborn skin. Trickle them with the extra-virgin olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
To make the mayonnaise, whisk all the ingredients except the oils and the lovage (or parsley) together in a bowl. Combine the two oils in a jug. Now, start to add the oils in a thin trickle, whisking continuously. When the oil mixture starts to emulsify with the yolks, you can add it a little faster. If things have gone to plan, you will have a thick, glossy mayonnaise. Stir in the chopped lovage (or parsley), taste and add more salt, pepper, mustard or vinegar, if required. If the mayo seems too thick, stir in 1 tablespoon of warm water. Set aside until you’re ready to serve. (Alternatively, you can use a food processor, trickling the oils in through the feed tube with the motor running.)
To serve, arrange the drained beetroot on a platter, saving the pickling vinegar. Arrange the anchovies and almonds over the top. Spoon over some of the lovage mayonnaise (the rest will keep in the fridge for 4–5 days) and scatter over any reserved beetroot leaves or another salad leaf. Dot with a drop of bright red pickling vinegar, and season all over with salt and pepper. Trickle with extra-virgin olive oil before serving.
From Outside - By Gill Meller
Published by Quadrille Publishing
Photography by Andrew Montgomery