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The leaves have been particularly present this autumn, I’ve really noticed them. I think because we’ve had such a dry and still October (at least here on the Devon/Dorset border we have) the leaves fell gently and lay there, on the ground, for days and weeks. They weren’t rained on or blown away. They just became more colourful, their chestnuts, tawnies and rust.
I love to see piles of leaves; they’re always a draw to me. Why do I want to lie down in them? a mattress of memories, a constant over the years, expected, inevitable, safe. Safe leaves. They represent both life and death, the passing of time. Leaves are the cycle of life, crunching under foot.
Standing in the garden, on a still morning, I hear a pronounced rustling, it seems I’m not the only one who likes mucking about in the leaves. There’s a thrashing about in the thinning canopy too, while something else, seems to be troubling about something or other nearer the ground, to be honest, there’s all sorts of chatter going on.
Yes, it’s grey squirrels of course! They’re a noisy bunch really, annoyingly endearing, but frightfully destructive too. They are all getting ready for winter, so are busy collecting nuts, acorns and seeds which they’ll stow away for the colder, darker months ahead.
Sometimes I’ll catch them in the veg garden, rummaging about. It’s rabbit proof, but very few things are squirrel proof! What’s more, they like vegetables, and don’t try to hide it. My beautiful dusty blue crown prince squash (the first year I’ve grown this variety) have been seriously nibbled and I’m almost certain those pesky squirrels have developed a taste for beetroot too.
There’s no getting away from it, grey squirrels are a pest, and pose a real threat to our trees and wildlife. Today there’s only an estimated 10000 – 15000 red squirrels left in the UK, but over 2.5 million greys. As a result their numbers are managed. Organisations such as the forestry commission carry out large culls to control their swelling population, but sadly, (with my chefs hat on) nearly all that squirrel meat is wasted, which is a real shame, because it’s absolutely delicious.
Considering we live in a world where the industrialization of meat production for food has become one of the greatest sustainability concerns of our time. And, where two thirds of the meat we consume comes from intensive factory farming systems, it would make sense, one might think, to eat more squirrel.
I can’t think of many animals that lead such active, natural and healthy lives.
It is a delicate textured, subtle flavoured meat, that I would liken to good chicken or rabbit.
A young squirrel won’t need to be braised or stewed. They can be fried or roasted quickly. The meat will be perfectly tender and juicy. Older animals respond well to low, gentle cooking. One of the most popular slow cooked dishes I make is a squirrel ragù with fresh pasta. It’s rich with tomato, smoked bacon and bay, and really takes some beating.
What’s brilliant about any recipe including squirrel, is you can switch it out for equal quantities of rabbit, pheasant or chicken instead. They all respond in a similar way.
I’ve included a recipe for roasting squirrel with garlic, pumpkin and sage in the high heat of the oven. It’s a wonderful combination of textures and flavours and seems fitting, given they’ve been ransacking my squash of late!
Roast squirrel with squash, sage & hazelnuts
This is such a simple and delicious way to cook squirrel. I’d recommend it to anyone, especially if you like getting hands-on with your food. This is the sort of dish I’d share with a friend, straight from the roasting tin, all salty fingers and smiles, with a good bottle of red wine. The meat is surprisingly tender and responds so well to the high heat of the oven. The pumpkin, sage and nuts are perfect with the squirrel, making this an ultimate autumn dish... albeit in a curious, Beatrix Potter kind of way.
Serves 2 as a starter
2 thick slices of butternut squash (about 250g/9oz)
1 oven-ready squirrel (about 250g/9oz, jointed on the bone), or 4 pheasant or 2 chicken thighs on the bone, or 1 small rabbit (jointed)
1 garlic bulb, halved around its circumference
1 handful of sage leaves 2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons whole hazelnuts
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oven to 200.c fan Place the squash slices in a medium roasting tray and arrange the squirrel (or pheasant, chicken or rabbit) pieces around it. Nestle in the two halves of the garlic bulb, then sage leaves and bay leaves, and then scatter over the hazelnuts. Drizzle over the olive oil and season everything well with salt and pepper.
Place the tray in the oven and roast for 45–60 minutes, turning the squirrel pieces once during this time, until the squash is cooked and the squirrel is tender. Remove the tray from the oven and allow the meat to rest for 4–5 minutes.
Divide the squirrel meat and squash evenly between two plates, along with a few cloves of the tender, roasted garlic. Serve straight away. (Or bring the roasting tin to the table and eat it straight from the tray).
